Key takeaways
- U.S. dimes, quarters, and half dollars dated 1964 or earlier are 90% silver and worth at least melt value.
- Dates, mint marks, and errors can make an ordinary-looking coin valuable.
- Never clean coins. Cleaning can wipe out most of their collector value.
- Get rare coins authenticated by PCGS or NGC before selling high-value pieces.
Start with silver
U.S. dimes, quarters, and half dollars from 1964 and earlier contain 90% silver; Kennedy halves from 1965–1970 contain 40%; Jefferson nickels from 1942–1945 with a large mint mark above Monticello are 35% silver. These are always worth at least their silver content, which rises and falls with the spot price.
Dates and mint marks
Mint marks (P, D, S, CC, O, W) appear near the date or on the reverse and indicate where a coin was struck. Some date and mint-mark combinations had low mintages and are worth far more. Well-known examples include the 1909-S VDB Lincoln cent, 1916-D Mercury dime, and 1932-D and 1932-S Washington quarters.
Errors to look for
- Doubled dies, where the lettering or date looks doubled (for example the 1955 doubled die cent).
- Off-center strikes, clipped planchets, and wrong-metal strikes.
- 1943 copper cents (most 1943 cents are steel) and 1944 steel cents, which are rare, and frequently faked.
Selling coins
Sort coins by type and date, set aside silver, and research key dates. Local coin shops buy quickly; auction houses and online marketplaces can pay more for rare coins. For anything potentially valuable, third-party grading by PCGS or NGC authenticates the coin and increases buyer confidence.
Frequently asked questions
Which old coins are worth money?
Any U.S. dime, quarter, or half dollar dated 1964 or earlier (90% silver), plus key dates, low-mintage mint marks, and error coins. Condition strongly affects value.
Should I clean old coins?
No. Cleaning leaves scratches and removes original surfaces, which collectors avoid. It can destroy most of a coin's value.
Prices and tips in this guide are general guidance for U.S. sellers based on typical resale markets. They are not a certified appraisal or a guarantee of what an item will sell for. For insurance, legal, tax, or high-value items, consult a qualified appraiser.